There’s nothing like an overhyped mithai shop in a city that is soaked in history and heritage. Laxmi Misthan Bhandar, housed comfortable in the middle of tourist-friendly and chaotic Johri Bazaar in Jaipur, is one such outlet. Signed as LMB on its signage, it is busy from the word go. The moment you enter, you have to make your way through localities, inbound and outbound tourists. They surf across the shelves of mithais, both Jaipuri and Indian, and chose the ones that would suit their palates. You safely conclude that LMB does brisk and highly lucrative business. Though it is not a large chain like a Haldiram’s or a Bikanerwala, its prices are no less. And they leave no stone unturned when it comes sales. Saree-clad women with notepads, spotted across the floor, urge you taste and purchase. Seemingly, most customers cave in.

Right next to the big hall, is the restaurant. When we went there was a 10-minute wait. The man at the entry was not courteous by any standards, and two of us were seated on a table that was closely joined with a family of four (it was pretty much like a table being shared with another family, a concept that I have never liked, especially with renowned restaurants). The whole restaurant remains as cramped as a 9AM DTC bus. The corridor between the rows of tables is barely good enough for two people to pass. The noise is unbeatable and the menu elaborate. The biggest put off was that right below the Thali menu they wrote in bold letters: “Not to be shared.” For a restaurant that charges Rs 400 for a thali, it was a disappointment. Lost between pedestal and premium, LMB is a restaurant that is solely inspired to make money basis the popular name that they have acquired over the years. Given the ambience, furniture, service and quality of staff, it is certainly grossly overpriced.

Since none of us had the appetite to have the whole thali, we ordered a portion of Bela Rajasthani (4 cubes of fried chickpea in gravy) which was spicy to the core, missi rotis, steamed rice and dal. The quantity was barely okay for two of us. The food, despite being positioned as pure Rajasthani was a disappointment (we had a better evening meal at Chokhi Dhani later in the evening at half the price). Despite the restaurant doing brisk business, they took 20 minutes to serve food. We could see other customers also constantly checking for their order.

Overall, the experience left a bad taste in the mouth (pun intended). I did not buy any sweets even if I was tempted to, though my wife bought kachauris and namekeen. After 75 minutes of struggle in LMB, we were relieved to back in fresh air when we got out. Next time, we would know where NOT to go at least. Having said that, I am sure LMB would remain as a hotspot forever.

Image: Jaipur-indiahotesl.com

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TIGER, tiger, burning bright
In the forests of the night,
What immortal hand or eye
Could frame thy fearful symmetry?

- William Blake

After having spent two days in Sawai Madhopur and been privileged enough to spot three tigers in the Ranthambore forest, I can safely conclude that Ranthambore and surroundings are totally tiger-obsessed. All conversations, art, shops have something or the other about the tiger. You cross Sawai Madhopur (a small quaint town neighbouring the vast tiger sanctuary) and you see green-colored cantors and Maruti Gypsys, and drivers wearing green hats, some with animal prints. You clearly know that you have to love the tiger to enjoy your holiday in Ranthambore.

We arrived in Ranthambor on Republic Day. It’s an 8-hour road trip from Delhi, if you go through Alwar-Dausa-Lalsot. Otherwise, train is a very good and viable option. Surprisingly, the roads were perfect apart from one bad patch where the roads were being made. My choice of hotel was Welcome Heritage, which had mixed reviews on TripAdvisor but I still went ahead with it because the property seemed to be quite picturesque, it was well within my budget and the name of Welcome Heritage seemed to make me feel good. But I was in for a shocker. The property is fantastic, in the sense that you can read or play cricket in the wide and sun-bathed lawns. The amenities were left wanting first when we could not access hot water and then the water flow stopped altogether. The reception staff was mediocre at best. They lacked proper communication skills and were hardly responsive. We had to call them thrice to remind that hot water was missing in our bathroom. There were a few more bad experiences but we did not let that dampen our spirits. Later I learnt that their safari rates were far more inflated than the others.

Our safari happened on the sunny afternoon of 27th January. Since we were on the Gypsy that was arranged by a localite than the hotel, the driver was kind enough to spot the tiger for us. We found two tigers sleeping amidst tall bush and our Gypsy crossed them. It was a sight to behold. We did not dare cross them again as that would have made immense sound. Our next sighting was when we saw a tigress moving into the deep jungle. We had seen 3 out of 40 and that was enough for us. The Ranthambore forest otherwise has countless crocodiles, sambhars and spotted deer. Towards the evening, you can spot the owls as well. Apart from that, the forest is a beauty, with hills from the Aravali Range all around, and a big watery pond in the corner. We were told that were lucky to spot three tigers, as sometimes people make more than half a dozen visits to spot one. This was a major relief for us. On my way back, I learnt from my conversations with the driver that many tourists come here time and again to see tigers. I am not a wildlife freak but I still found that being too obsessive for wildlife! For me, Ranthambore stands to be a good one-time visit. I’d rather go to Madhya Pradesh the next time and do a thorough survey of the resort!

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It was an unusual choice on Sunday afternoon to watch the moderately-acclaimed The Time Traveller’s Wife. Two strong reasons for watching the film: a) Lisa Ray in a recent interview named it as one of her favourite films b) It starred the flawless Eric Bana who rarely fails to depict the role of a fallen star.

For the uninitiated, time travelling is a condition (at least in the film) in which a man involuntarily travels in the past and future, which means he may interact with his dead mother or unborn child. The drawback: You also know when you die. Henry, the protagonist, in the film, certainly knows that and is troubled largely in the second half of the movie with his inevitable death. The title only partially does justice to the film that is not entirely about the pretty wife of Henry whose first interaction with Henry is as a six year old when he appears in the meadows and befriends her. Then he meets her years after as a librarian when the little girl has grown into an attractive woman. The unlikely romance begins. Henry appears and disappears much to the girl’s amusement, and it is only after the wedding that the wife is irritated by the act of sudden disappearances and appearances. Henry does all he can to maintain sanity in the withering marriage. When he learns that his wife has scarce space in the house, he appears from future and wins her a lottery ticket of USD 5 million.

The story so goes that they have all problems that would occur in such a marriage, including the possibility of a child having the same genetic anomaly. All ends well, when all them, including the child, make friends with the situation and condition.

The Time Traveller’s Wife is a heart-warming film. It’s an odd romantic film something like The Curious Case Of Benjamin Button where the female lover undergoes the pain of seeing her lover grow into a child. The film’s treatment is fantastic, as the audience for once believe that such anomaly really exists. You feel for the characters helplessly, much like they happily and helplessly seek comfort. It’s a story that depicts an in-between situation. You don’t have someone with you neither you have lost him. The Time Traveller’s Wife, though was an average grosser at the box office, has mixed reviews from the critics. I’d say watch it. And if this inspires you, it’s produced by Brad Pitt!

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My last weekend indulgence was watching the Spielberg-directed Minority Report. It’s a movie I had heard of quite a few times earlier but was never attracted to watch it because it came across as a typical sci-fi which is not my favourite genre. When I finished watching the film I knew what I had missed. Minority Report is one of the best thrillers that I have ever watched even if the ending gets predictable towards the end. A few things stand out in this futuristic film. The concept that is based on the psychic readings of three pre-cogs who have the power to see crime before it happens thus allowing the precrime department to arrest the murderer before he could commit crime (this helps in keeping the 2054 Washington DC free of crime for six years). The technology is believably good which is a rarity in such films. It seems true that self-driven cars, airborne cops and automated investigations will be a reality in the middle of this century if not earlier. The plot is novel and outstanding. And lastly, Tom Cruise, as a runaway chief of Precrime, and a victim of his own system, delivers exceedingly well.

Minority Report is a fast-paced film right from the first shot. Typical of all Spielberg films, the character is of prime importance in the film. The protagonist is in action throughout. He starts as a hero, then becomes a victim and eventually unveils the corrupt system. Colin Farrell, a side-cast, does his job well (akin to Christian Bale’s role in Public Enemies but not so well executed of course) and other support cast is convincing. If you are nowhere close to the contemporary technology, you may find some things hard to understand. However, the film gives time to grasp the happenings. The plots and subplots are creative and pacy. The screenplay is impressive and some scenes, like the one where spiders crawl to scan Tom Cruise’s eye, are really nerve-wracking.

Minority Report comes with its twists and turns that are well-crafted. The genius of Spielberg ensures it does not turn into a gaffe like iRobot or gets over-the-top like Terminator. There’s a piece of swift action in the film that may remind you of Cruise’s MI antics, but Spielberg holds it for the rest of the film to get the cerebral function back on track.

I would give Minority Report 8/10 for its near-perfect execution. Whilst MR may not have the class of Spielberg’s best such as Schindler’s List, it is definitely an above average work which may have been better handled by the likes of Christopher Nolan perhaps. I’d sign off leaving that debate open.

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Let me start with a comparison. Don 2 definitely offers more entertainment and intelligent cinema than Don. While Don was a disappointment with a rather bland ending, Don 2 showcases brilliant screenplay and a script that may be trite by Hollywood standards, but enterprising for quintessential Bollywood audience. There are few things however that go bad with Don 2. First, the humor is a misfit. It is novel and creative but hardly induces laughter. For example, Shah Rukh Khan’s trademark dialogues may have helped promote the film, but they seem to be rather forced into the Don’s mouth at times. The modern Don does wear his sarcasm on his sleeve, only to please himself though. Then there is a zone in the film that tries to make it believable and real and then disappoints with its typical filmi utopia. For example, Don escapes the Bank building through a secret route ditching his companions. But when police have to re-enter the building through the same secret route they have to rely on Don. There’s no one from the building who can guide them in?

Coming to performances, Shah Rukh Khan dances on the edge of overacting but manages to pull it off. Don does need some elan and SRK does that with some effectiveness. Lara Dutta is a good support but does not turn the heat on in the only item number. Priyanka Chopra is a female lead who leads her life on the sidelines of catching the elusive Don. Priyanka delivers but not at her best with this unchallenging role. Boman Irani, right from Don 1, I have felt was not made for this kind of role. He is at best doing comedies. He looks a caricature of his comedian self when making faces and frowns as a bad man. Only Anupam Kher carried that versatility of being a top comedian and villain. Kunal Kapoor, seemingly underweight in the film, does his job well. There’s a 5-minute cameo by Hrithik Roshan whose suave on-screen charisma cannot be ignored.

The USP of Don 2 is the shoot in Berlin and creating a script that is full of turns and twists. The masterplans are disclosed at the right moment in the film. Taking inspiration from the Bourne Series and Ocean’s Eleven, Don is bollywoodishly classy. It is a pot-boiler and goes ahead of Dhoom series (which I find quite mediocre, save Roshan’s phenomenon in Dhoom 2).

Why would you watch Don 2? Being an SRK fan is obviously one. I have admired Farhan from the days of Lakshaya and Dil Chahta Hai and that makes it another reason to see what this talented director can do with a film. The screenplay, as I mentioned, is quite fantastic. Lastly, it is a typical paisa vasool SRK entertainer. A good one time watch, as they say!

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It was an instantaneous decision to watch The Dirty Picture a few days back. I knew in the back of my mind that The Dirty Picture had opened to mixed reviews. The only consistent element in the reviews was Vidya Balan’s mindblowing acting. I would have to agree with critics from all walks that Vidya Balan does inimitably deliver a solid performance. You can make that out from the first 10 minutes of the film, which depicts the delight, rise and pathos of a stereotyped erotic film star. It unveils the hypocrisy of our society and the clichéd rise and fall of stardom mishandled.

Based on the real life of 80s South Indian siren Silk Smitha, The Dirty Picture is directed by Milan Luthria of ‘Once Upon a time in Mumbaai’ fame. Silk Smitha’s family has sued Balaji Telefilm claiming that film drifts away from the real life of Silk Smitha. That could very well be the case for two reasons 1) Indian film producers do not generally take the real hero in cognizance and are driven more by the hunger to sell it (like the producers shown in the film) than make a true biopic 2) Since it is a Balaji Telefims production, I second my first point with more authority.

In The Dirty Picture’s case, where direction and screenplay is wanting in the second half and goes from good to average to irritating, actors are the saviours. Veteran Naseerudin Shah depicts the role of a pompous southern film star pretty well (you may feel that he is a misfit but Shah never disappoints). Emraan Hashmi and Tushaar Kapoor do their act with conviction. Anju Mahendroo, seen after a long time, plays a role of famous and opinionated journalist, and ends up looking like a overgrown vamp herself. Vidya Balan, as I said earlier, is brilliant throughout the film.

The Dirty Picture is no Erin Brockovich. It lacks the substance. The film loses itself somewhere between masala entertainment and a biopic. Post-interval, there are sporadic and sudden changes in the script that look like almost forced. For example, Ibrahim’s sudden change in emotion for Silk is hard to believe. It lacks conviction.

The music of the film is average. The only number that excites is the Bappi Lahri composed Oh la la! With poor execution, The Dirty Picture is sure to be remembered as  Vidya Balan’s finest moment in Bollywood so far. Also, we might finally have an actress who can carry women-oriented roles entirely on her own. I can’t wait now for Kareena-starring Heroine to release in 2012 and make comparisons between the two very talented contemporaries. Balan for now looks unchallenged.

Image: www.glamsham.com

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This is no official or accurate guide to visiting Rome, but summarizes my experience over a span of six days in a city that is replete with historical monuments, a very warm culture, cafes, sunlight, piazzas, tourists, fun and music.  It’s once city where you can be entertained merely walking through it. You don’t need to do anything else.

Day 1

I arrived in Rome on Qatar Airways which made a stopover at Doha Airport. Not really the best of Airports in the world but not bad for an hour’s stopover. New Delhi to Doha was a 2 and a half hour affair and further it took us about 5 hours to reach the Italian capital. I have to mention that my entry into the Roman Airport immigration was no less than a small adventure. While my wife was stamped on the visa by the immigration officer, when my turn came, he asked for a copy of the air ticket and hotel reservation which was in the bag that my wife had taken along across the barrier. When I mentioned this to the officer, he called over one of his colleagues who escorted me to a separate room to be seated with a few other people. That’s when I got jitters. I asked one of the police officers to inform my wife about my whereabouts so that she doesn’t get worried. The police office duly obliged. In the meanwhile, I was called upon by another office who asked me the purpose of the trip. It was then that my wife also arrived, and I showed him the documents. Once he understood that we were on honeymoon, he stamped smilingly asking us to visit Venice too. The nerves settled within a few minutes but not without a few missed heartbeats.

Outside the airport, we hired a shuttle service cab, which I learnt later clearly overcharged us and took a tip of 5 Euros. Since I was uncertain about the tip culture in Italy I let it be. We arrived in the beautiful and well-located Hotel Napoleon around 3 in the afternoon. The 4 star Hotel Napoleon is located at Piazza Vittorio Emanuelle II, about a 10-minute walk from Rome’s most famous landmark the Colosseum. To our surprise, we had a bellboy in the hotel with a lavish lobby, free Internet and very clean rooms. Not to mention a very friendly staff which would help us very eagerly over the next 5 days. For those who plan a trip to Rome (Roma in Italian) in the future, Hotel Napoleon is largely recommended unless you are overly spoilt by 5 star properties.

On the first evening, we took a walk around the hotel and got a first hand experience of a flea market that was set up on that day. Whilst I had read on the Internet that in Rome there is a cafe after every 10 meters, I was amazed to see that it was actually true. You get Italian delicacies after every 10 meters with tables outside the cafes and stylishly-dressed Italians sipping wine along with antipastis and pastas. The first taste of Cappuccino and Grilled chicken at one such cafe was simply out of the world, with sun beating on us on a cold Roman evening. The Cappuccino, I have to say, in Rome, is nothing like what we have in India. That is the Roman version is sinfully addictive!

How you spend the first day in a foreign city sets up your mood for the rest of the trip, and thankfully our first evening in Rome was a hit, with a trip down to Piazza Navona. Piazza Navona is a huge square located just off the main shopping street. Incidentally, when we arrived, there was a huge carnival going on in anticipation of Christmas. It reminded me of the good old melas that I used to go to with my parents. You had dart games, one where you put the ring in the toys, shooting on the balloons, and more like that. Merry-go-round was also there, with its colors and fun. Needless to say there were many shops set up serving food and things like hot wine, crepes, macarons, dry fruits, fruits, apple pies, etc. It was clear from one walk down the Piazza that Navona is a tourist hub, with a slew of shops selling souvenirs at inflated prices. It was however the smell of cappuccino outside the cafes that unblocked our clogged nostrils and we were compelled to gulp down another cup of cappuccino. The variety of gelatos in every cafe is another attraction for those with a sweet tooth (in this case, my wife).

We rounded off the day with a hearty meal at a cafe just off Piazza Navona. We dabbled with Penne Pasta which was not really a disappointment. One common thing that I discovered over next 5 days was that the service at cafes is heart-warming and every one greets you with a customary and melodious Ciao! I also noticed that while most natives had a heartful meal with drinks, we as a couple usually shared one meal without drinks which meant the cafe always billed less than average to us. Still they were courteous!

The first day set the tone for the rest of the trip very well. Our bus trip from and to the hotel was enthralling with historical landmarks on the way. Rome is a photographer and historian’s delight!

Day 2

Day 2 started with a walk to the Colosseum where once gladiators fought in front of thousands of Romans for the ultimate glory. The Colosseum is synonymous with the city of Rome just like Agra is with India. For me, the Colosseum was the most important monument to visit simply because I had read so much about it, and for those who have watched Gladiator, the Colosseum is surely a place to look forward to. Fortunately for us, the Colosseum was just a 10-minute walk from Hotel Napoleon. At the first glimpse of Colosseum from the outside it seems to be a monument in ruins that is depleting at a fast rate. It strikes you hard when you learn that it is over 2000 years old and has been preserved by the Italian government. Needless to say, the ticket sales also bring enormous revenue to the Italian government. We were there on a weekday in off season, and there was a 45-minute queue for normal ticket which costs Euro 12. However, we stood in a separate and shorter queue which was selling tickets with audioguide (another Euro 5.5 for that). Audio guided tours have a small TV remote-like equipment that you carry with you inside the Colosseum. There are many marked points inside where you can stand and listen to the audio that describes the significance and history of the view that you can see from that particular point. Audioguides are available in various global languages. We, of course, chose English.

It takes about an hour doing a round of the Colosseum depending upon a person’s interest. At most 2 hours are enough even for an averagely keen historian. Inside you see the channels were animals were trapped for fights as well as the refurbished stage where men fought with animal and each other. On the top level, as you go round, there are artefacts from the Roman Civilization on display that tell the evolution of the Colosseum (let me not get into that otherwise I will end up writing a book here). All in all, what strikes you the most about the Colosseum is its grandeur and the visualization of men fighting amidst a crowd of 50,000 Romans who came to see victory and blood in its most ruthless form.

Next to the Colosseum, at a 10-minute walk, is the Palatine (also known as Palatine Hill). Ticket for the Colosseum includes entry to the Palatine though there is a separate fee for audioguide. The Palatine is the most ancient part of Rome, where civilization began in about 1000 BC. The whole of Palatine is quite huge, and if you are a keen explorer you would need about 3 hours in your hand. Since you cover a great distance on foot, you also need short breaks in between. There is a museum too in the Palatine holding artefacts from ancient Rome. Inside Palatine, you find remains of a civilization, huge spaces, rocks and stones from the past, remains of the rooms and houses. It only interests you more if you have studied of Roman Civilization earlier. It is also a great place to picnic if one wants to (it may remind Delhiites of the great Lodhi Garden).

After Palatine, we took a mighty walk to Via del Corso which is the main shopping street in Rome. We walked in the innermost streets of Rome, along numerous cafes, speeding cars, idling Romans that sat on the small hills and carelessly walked in the evenings. Tired after a great walk and sightseeing, it was time for a grand food break, which I would discover in the coming 5 days, never disappoints in Italy. Whilst you would expect most travellers to eat the pastas and pizzas when in Rome, I mostly gorged on grilled chicken and well-made veggies. I must make a special mention here that I found that roadside cafes serve grilled chicken made in oil while most authentic fine dining restaurants tend to serve bland saltless grilled chicken. A portion of pasta, pizza or grilled chicken with veggies would cost you about Euro 10 in a cafe. Throughout my trip, the service was fantastic and waiters always served willingly with a smile on their faces.
Especially in the main shopping area, you will find staff in cafes that is inviting and charming to the hilt.

Day 2 ended with a 5-minute metro ride back to the hotel. The city is dead by 10 and the metro stops working at 9 in the evening. Buses are usually working till 11.

Day 3

Earlier, we had planned to go to Pisa for a day on day 3 but that was postponed to day 4 because we were tired after a long journey and demanding first two days, which meant day 3 was to be lighter, and lighter it was. We cut down on our walk on Day 3. How? I’ll tell in a while. Day 3 started with taking a metro to Barberini and walking upto the Pantheon, a 2000 year old Roman temple located in the heart of Rome. The walk to the Pantheon is no less than a historic voyage. You go through narrow streets, passing by monuments on either side that have some history associated with it, but you do not want to stop and enquire about every other monument because the city is replete with history. Also, the walk has its funny things on the way, like we encountered a statue-like man sitting on a bench, dressed in chocolate. Who said, only history amuses in Rome? You reach Pantheon through very narrow streets almost creating a narrow passage to the large temple. On your left and right are souvenir shops and cafes and stores. Customers oblige all the time. Clearly, it is targeted at tourists.

The moment you reach the Pantheon you know you have hit something very historical and special. The entrance is hidden by giant pillars that speak volumes on Roman history and architecture. The tall structure is often crowded and you have to stand in a queue for entry (entry is free). In front of the Pantheon is a large piazza (square) where people roam around or sit, or just watch the grandeur of the Pantheon from distance. The interior of the Pantheon is breathtaking for two reasons: the beauty and history. For all church lovers, the Pantheon is a sight to behold. You may like to admire the work done on the walls, or the candles that brighten the darkness, or sit in the mass in the church. You can do the whole temple in either 5 minutes or even be inside for hours admiring one part for many minutes. We spent about 15 minutes inside.
After being done with the Pantheon, we hired a horse carriage till Piazza de Popolo via Fontana de Trevi. We negotiated a bit with the man on the carriage and the man gave us a few extra minutes on the carriage instead of coming down on the cost. Apart from being a relief to our limbs, the ride on the carriage was no less than attention grabbing with people looking at us all amused. The man on the carriage rode us through the narrow streets in the most careless fashion, singing Italian songs and making the city as romantic as it was historical. Our first stop was Fontana de Trevi, a landmark in the city, where you throw a coin into the water and ask for a wish (how clichéd). After making a brief stop at Fontana de Trevi, we continued our ride towards Piazza del Popolo, a large square that was built in early 1800s. It’s a typical weekend square where you would see large air bubbles in the air, a replica of baby Christ being surrounded by people, tourists and locals posing for photographs in front of the fountain in center of the piazza. Piazza del Popola is a perfect to place to relax on a sunny Roman day after you have walked through the better part of the main shopping center. In fact, three of the main shopping streets merge at the Piazza.

The evening of Day 3 was spent roaming around the area, with a few shopping indulgences.

Day 4

Day 4 was a one day excursion to Pisa to see the famous and one of the seven wonders of the world the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Pisa is about a 3 and a half hour ride from Rome by train. If you are doing Florence in Italy, then it is about an hour from Florence. There are faster trains as well but they cost quite a lot. We travelled first class and it cost us appx Euro 50 per person one side. So, we ended up spending Euro 200 for two way for both of us which was quite a lot given the Indian standard of rail fare. Having said that, I must mention it is a delight to be on train in Italy. The first class is spacious and very comfortable. In fact, on our return journey, we did not even realize how time went by and reached hotel ultra fresh.

What was however tiring was the walk from Pisa station to the Leaning Tower. Pisa is a small town and as far as I understand it extends only till the Leaning Tower. The walk to the Leaning Tower is about 4-5 kms from the station, but what makes the walk interesting is the market that you pass by. The entire walk is quintessentially Italian in nature with clothing shops, souvenir shops, cafes, ice cream joints on the way. The first glance at the Leaning Tower doesn’t make you feel that the tower is leaning at all. It’s only when you cross to the other side you can’t help noticing the unbelievable tilt. It’s funny to visiting something like the Leaning Tower where you can spend either a minute or a complete day.

For those who like to get into the skin can climb 750 steps of the tower to reach the top (you need to buy a ticket). We did not do a climb to the top as were quite tired after a walk and wanted to save some energy for the walk back to the station.

There’s nothing more to write about Pisa which is no more than a small town with a river and bridges and people who welcome you. You would also find Asian immigrants running grocery stores selling MDH garam masala and Dabur Amla hair oil. From the look of it, Pisa appears to be a peaceful town where the code is to make merry. The food was as good as we found in Rome, and may be a tad cheaper. If you go there save a few Euros to buy some cute souvenirs on your way back. In the end, I also have a feeling that a road trip to Pisa from Rome would also have been as enjoyable.

Day 5

After having seen major landmarks and attractions in Rome, it was time for the Vatican. Having been to the Vatican, I can safely say that the Vatican cannot be written, it can only be witnessed. We started and ended with the Vatican museum, which is a wonder in itself. I did find the entry fee of Euro 15/person quite steep. The museum is huge in size though not as much as the Louvre. There are various sections to the museum with the most famous being the Sisteen Chappell which has a well-lit ceiling with work done to minute details. It definitely leaves you in awe and wonder. Like you would expect from the Vatican museum, there is unmatchable grandeur about the place. The well-guarded museum is divided into various sections and has its own cafes and souvenir shops. While photography is allowed, flash is prohibited. The strict looking Vatican Police guards are ubiquitous inside the museum.

For history buffs, Vatican museum is a dream. There are well-detailed stories for each artefact and you can easily spend the entire day studying and admiring this wonder. Apart from the museum there is the St Peters Basilica in the Vatican City.

Our day 5 was rounded off with a stroll along the streets and an early arrival at the hotel. The second last day was the shortest yet the most relaxing.

The last day was supposed to begin with a visit to Villa Borghese, a large garden space, near our hotel, but was cancelled as we got up late.

All in all, the visit to Rome was pure indulgence, and the six day stay went off in a jiffy. Rome would continue to be a city that is straight out of the books. But that’s not it, there are a few more observations of the city.

People

The best thing about Rome is its people. The warmth of the people charms you from the moment you touch down. From the hotel staff to cafe staff to the man on the street, everyone is willing to help. They would willingly click your photograph, guide you if you are lost or have a word with you if you want to enquire something. The laidback culture of the city gives everyone a lot of time.

Shopping

Rome is a shopper’s delight. It’s needless to mention the sense of fashion Italians have. Rome is not a very big city yet a major part of the city is the shopping area. Apart from the high-end fashion street there are local shops that sell very local made stuff. Rome can be very addictive for impulsive and compulsive shoppers. Beware! You may easily exceed your shopping budget.

Food

Rome is a foodies paradise. Every second store is a cafe selling a range of pastas, paninis and pizzas. Espresso is popular in Rome though I preferred the irresistible cappuccino. Certain Italian specialities like Artichokes can be had in proper restaurants though they may not satiate Indian palates.
Commute

Taxis, like the whole of Europe, are expensive. If you want to travel cheap, use the metro and bus. Walking is another great option as it allows you to have a first hand view of the city.

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I was about to title this ‘Why I don’t like Sachin Tendulkar?’ but refrained from so because I thought that would be a bit exaggerated as I have always adored him as a batsman from the time I started understanding cricket. However, I firmly believe that both brand and person Sachin Tendulkar has made me question his thought process. I have made a few points ever since I have been following him, and they may also make you sit up and question.

The Ferrari Episode – Many know that he was gifted a Ferrari by Ferrari which he recently ‘sold’ to a Gujarati businessman. When he was gifted Ferrari it was imported from Italy, and quite obviously there was a hefty duty on that to be paid, but our Sachin Tendulkar apparently asked the custom to nullify it. Reason? Because he was a national icon (world’s richest cricketer and one of the country’s top taxpayers) and he could be exempted. And he was eventually exempted from paying the duty. Why did he not pay duty on the car which all of us are obliged to? I think I deserve that more as I am an entrepreneur and create employment for Indians. Just because Sachin has scored more runs? They don’t get bread to the poor.

Can’t play T20 for India – Sachin Tendulkar was one of the veterans to opt out of the 2007 T20 world cup which India won. Since then he has not played a single T20 match for India. The reason could be that he does not see a future in it (he was 34 in 2007). But hold your breath! He advocated for IPL when it was introduced 4 years back. Reason? Big moolah. Ever since then Sachin has also opted to sit out of quite a few international series including the upcoming ODI series against the West Indies. I remember well that after an exhaustive world cup he was in Mumbai Indians colors immediately though he sat out throughout the tournament. Then there are players such as Mitchell Johnson and Michael Clarke who never played the IPL because they wanted to keep themselves fit for internationals (both of them are good 10 years younger to the legend).

Best amongst the rest? Not really I would say though statsbook can easily defeat this notion of mine. Sachin Tendulkar has rarely played matchwinning innings apart from the Sharjah pyrotechnics which are now as ancient as my college days. Even in world cups that he has played in, he has been amongst the top scorers but always failed in the knockout stages. Here, two of his contemporaries Ricky Ponting and Jaques Kallis have delivered precious knocks under pressure quite regularly. In crisis, Rahul Dravid, Laxman and Sehwag have done far better and delivered under pressure.

Having criticised him for all this, Sachin would always stay the greatest Indian sportsperson, not controversially though, at least for me. I would rate Dravid and Kumble as more efficient contemporaries.

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It less than a fortnight to go and one question that I counter on very frequent basis: “So, how does it feel? Are you nervous?” Nervous about what? Getting Married? Hell, no. What would make me nervous in the world about getting married? It’s not something that’s coming to me unwilling or forced. It’s my choice of occasion with my choice of lady. The honest confession is that even when I say that there’s an unnerving feeling about it. I can’t really rationalize or reason that feeling. It’s not in the consciousness. It just comes naturally and goes away naturally. It’s like that feeling when you are about to enter the exam hall and suddenly you feel you have forgot all that you were mugging the whole last night!

Still, I’ll insist, marriage doesn’t freak me out! Why?

-    One of the reasons is I enjoy marriages (for the uninitiated, this is my first time. I am referring to the weddings that I have attended) is I like the rituals even if they keep you awake till wee hours of the morning and you have to battle a hundred yawns and brave the unbeatable ubiquitous smoke that comes from the havan mandap.

-    It’s your day. When you are the center of attraction. From what you wear to how you scratch, everything is noticed. People dance as if there’s no tomorrow. For the groom, the downside is the heavy pagdi (how I hate that) and the blinding sehra that ensures he has to constantly struggle to view the proceedings. For the bride, it is mighty easier (I know they wear heavy lehangas but isn’t that a matter of choice?).

-    It is one occasion when everyone comes together.  All relatives come under one roof and that’s a rarity today! We forget differences and mindless gossips for a while and party together as if there was no yesterday (you know what I mean).

-    The rumor is life changes after marriage. I can’t remember a phase in my life when it didn’t change. And who in the world wants a monotonous boring life? If there’s a change, bring it on.

-    They say that you put on weight after wedding. That’s fine actually with me. I have been trying to slow my metabolic rate for a while. Marriage may just be the right remedy for it.

-     Then there are other things that they say! ‘you get up at 6 and make chai for your wife’, ‘you need to report everything at home’, ‘wives can get nagging, demanding, unreasonable, etc’. I am a businessman you see, and I am used to such people in clients! So, that’s fine! And for Christ’s sake, I don’t want a wife who doesn’t speak or demand! I love the mini battles (and winning them too;) )

P.S: My above opinions are in stark contrast to another piece that I wrote three years back.

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It’s always fun to attend a close friend’s wedding, especially when it is happening in another town, in my case which was Chandigarh where I spent the earlier part of my teenage years. So, it was a trip that was laced with nostalgia and excitement of attending a school friend’s wedding. The first feeling that grips you when you make a run down to such wedding is how the time flies and you have grown up to be men from the time when the only worry used to be to get good grades. 15 years back I used to ride my bicycle in school uniform on the same roads where now, I was driving in my sedan as a grown up. Times change and so do we.

The best thing about Punjabi wedding is the warmth that you receive when you arrive as a guest, apart from the usual stress on food and dance. Getting drunk a day before the wedding and on the D-day is almost taken for granted, and if you are a teetotaller or a very rare drinker like me, you are frowned upon for being a saint on an important occasion such as this. God knows that I am a horrible dancer and god knows well how I love dancing on weddings. That is one occasion when you let yourself loose and dance as if no one’s watching you.  For us urban parasites, that’s a good way to burn some calories as well.

There’s another thing to small town weddings that us Delhiites envy. The quickness of things! In my friend’s case, the sehra bandhi happened at 7 and jaimala was done by 10! Commuting time is less, people are less cumbersome and believe in the simplicity of things. In fact, the wedding attendance was reduced to just close relatives by 11:00 whereas in Delhi the normal time for a baraat to enter the venue is about 11 courtesy our traffic and attitude to be not on time!
The fun of a weekend wedding lies in the carelessness of the occasion right from pulling the groom’s leg to negotiating over the entry to joota chori. There’s no point when the fun is not there. And when a lot of friends get together it is an occasion that just takes us into a zone of happiness where you just want to make merry.

God bless the married couple!

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